Lots to think about this week as we explore the idea of how to expand the TRC Leiden and include a far greater number of workshops, courses and internships, as well as a new cycle of lectures - and yes, we have faith in the future, although, thanks to the corona crisis, it will be different from the one envisaged a few years ago.

School sampler worked by Lena van Eyck from Eindhoven, the Netherlands, in 1927. The embroidery is worked first in square letters, then in rounded ones (TRC 2013.0286).

Key factors in this ‘sea change’ (Shakespeare, The Tempest) concern the concept of sustainability, as well as a movement to bring back industry and production to Europe. There is a growing demand for basic skills that for generations were taken for granted, but since the 1960’s have taken more and more of a back seat to cheap, mass produced products from Asia. As a result there are two generations that were not taught some very basic skills. There are many people who cannot even sew on a button, let alone wield a needle. But this does not mean people lack the passion to learn. Ironically the problems with the blockage of the Suez Canal in March 2021 made many aware how dependent and vulnerable much of the world has become of production processes in other continents, not to mention the environmental impact of shipping a cheap T-shirt from Shanghai to Guatemala, and that more has to be done to remedy this situation.

So what can we, i.e. the TRC Leiden, do? We are not a large, influential organisation, we do not have a huge workforce, or indeed the finances often associated with big businesses. On the other hand we have passion, knowledge, and a desire to pass both on to following generations. One way for this to happen is to expand our teaching programme we have been giving for the last ten or so years. Instead of a few a month, we are thinking of giving multiple events every week, which will add up to hundreds per year! A huge task that will take a lot of organisation, space and funding, but it is not impossible by any stretch of the imagination.

So we have been actively talking with groups here in the Netherlands, Germany, England and Denmark about setting up a textile centre, or should it be a craft school, or perhaps a craft academy? Are we talking about an art or a craft? The number of (heated) debates at the TRC about a suitable name is as intriguing as it is frustrating. The connotation of words is sometimes very personal, not to mention the added problem when using and interpreting foreign words. When talking about textile production, do we use the words 'craft', 'handcraft', 'handicraft', or 'arts'? Do we talk about 'craftsmen,' 'craft persons,' 'artists,' or 'artisans'? Do we use the words 'creativity' or 'skill'? And in Dutch, which words do we use: ambacht, handwerk, handnijverheid, stiel, vakmanschap? 

So what is the best name/term for a place where anyone who is seriously interested can learn, practise and indeed teach textile technology and its history worldwide? Serious suggestions most welcome!

Gillian Vogelsang, 25 May 2021

Some interesting replies:

Jessica Langenhoff from Leiderdorp, the Netherlands, wrote on Facebook: Maybe combine craft and workshop or atelier? I see atelier is both Dutch and English and French but the meaning may be different? Handvaardigheid klinkt erg naar school van vroeger net als 'textiele werkvormen'. But 'textiel atelier' may suit? Textile craft atelier? I like skill but creativity is also nice. We practice skills and add some creativity for the personal touch.

Keryn James from Australia wrote: How inspiring! We in Australia have also come to the same conclusion re manufacturing and training. The wording is interesting as it is all of those things isn’t it. Humans have come so far from the things that matter like the earth and basic teachings from manners to making things. We have been taught to just consume. I shall watch from afar with excitement and interest.