PIGOZNE, Ieva (2020). Colours and Their Meanings in 3rd-13th Century Baltic Dress, Riga: Latvijas Nacionalais kulturas centrs. ISBN 9934528401, 2020, hardback, 294 pp., colour photographs, lists of archaeological Latvian textiles, bibliography. Price: €18.
This study is a peer-reviewed doctoral thesis, in both Latvian and English, which examines 3rd to 13th century Baltic tribal textile remains. The study attempts three things: to identify the fragments of original colours; how the colours were made; and the meaning the colours were given.
The study’s methodology is interesting. Spectroscopic analysis was used, but also a thorough analysis of traditional folklore and folk songs that mention specific colours.
Prof. Pigozne concludes that dark blue and brown were the main colours for garments, with red and yellow used for ornamentation.
There are several full colour photographs of the archaeological textile fragments (many preserved because of the bronze rings used to ornament garments), and photographs of modern reconstructions of the garments. The book includes a complete list of textile fragments from the period, with information where they were found, about the material and the original colours.
Recommendation: The language is very accessible and the study will interest other colour researchers, re-enactors and dyers.
Shelley Anderson, 1 January 2023
