DEJEAN, Joan (2018). The Queen’s Embroiderer: A True Story of Paris, Lovers, Swindlers, and the First Stock Market Crisis, New York: Bloomsbury Publishing, ISBN 9781632864741. Hardback, black/white and full colour illustrations, 383 pp., extensive notes, list of archival documents consulted, and bibliography. Price: US$ 30.
In 1720 a Parisian nobleman, newly wealthy from financial speculation, paid 900 livres to have a suit of clothes embroidered in silver. A year later another nobleman paid 1,390 livres to have a single outfit embroidered in gold. For context, rent on an apartment in Paris at that time amounted to between 100 to 500 livres a year. Embroidery was big business in 18th century Paris.
In 1677 Jean Magoulet was named the Embroiderer to Queen Marie-Thérèse, wife of King Louis XIV. He used his skill in embroidery, and in designing haute couture, to advance his son’s position in life—and to speculate in new construction projects and trade in the New World. He also, in order to avert financial ruin, had his own daughter forcibly deported to New Orleans, where French women accused of prostitution were transported.
Recommendation: This meticulously researched book makes for gripping reading. It is not a history of embroidery per se, but will interest historians of the period, especially those researching trade and economics.
Shelley Anderson, 1 January 2023
